by Kyla Cruz
Over the last few years my natural hair journey has been anything but pleasant. Having gone through intense breakage due to damaged, dry and brittle hair, I never thought I would see the day that my hair would be waist length. I can tell you now, 4C hair is not for the weak. First and foremost, you must understand that no one has the same hair or genetics and so, you have to do what works best for you.
You want to learn about your hair to better protect and provide for it. Do you have low or high porosity hair? What is that? Low porosity hair means that the structure of your hair does not easily allow moisture to be absorbed into your hair shaft. This can make it harder for water or oils to penetrate your scalp. Low porosity hair repels moisture.
If you have high porosity hair this means your hair allows moisture to be absorbed into the scalp easily, yet it is not able to retain moisture for long. This is because the cuticles tend to have gaps or spaces between them. Here is a way to find out using a strand of your hair:
Shampoo and rinse your hair to remove any product buildup
Fill a glass with water
Once your hair is dry and clean, drop a single strand of your hair into the glass of water
Watch the strand to see if it sinks to the bottom of the glass or floats to the top
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Low Porosity Hair: If the strand floats at the top before sinking, you likely have low porosity hair
Normal Porosity Hair: If the strand floats somewhere in the middle of the glass, you probably have medium to normal porosity hair
High Porosity Hair: If the strand quickly sinks to the bottom of the glass, you likely have high porosity hair
Genetics can play a crucial role in hair porosity—for example, both my mother and I have low porosity hair. I find that the best way to keep my hair moisturized is to apply my moisture right after sitting under a hooded dryer. With that said, let’s dive into some hair education…every human has about 100,000 hair follicles on their scalp alone.
The shape of them determines your natural hair pattern and whether your hair is straight, wavy, curly or kinky. Speaking of Kinky, have you tried, Kinkistry? Kinkistry rocks so many hairstyles for women of color, they’re the ultimate in all-natural solution. You’ll find clip-ins, wigs, wefted hair, and drawstring ponytails that blend seamlessly, all made with 100% virgin human hair accessories. Feel free to visit them at kinkistry.com
Tropic Isle Living Jamaican Black Castor Oil, Retail: $16.93
Tropic Isle Living (Highly Recommended)
Highly recommended and first on our list because it truly works! Strengthens hair follicles for strong, healthy, beautiful hair. Creates a protective coating on the skin to seal in moisture.
Tropic Isle Living’s goal is to bring you top quality, natural, products prepared traditionally, and conveniently at your fingertips, for a better, healthy, beautiful you.
Green Tea Super Moist Leave-in Conditioner, Retail: $13.75
TGIN (Highly Recommended)
Many natural hair products contain alcohol as the first five ingredients. I searched high and low for a product where alcohol was not a concentrated main ingredient and here it is!
It's further down on the ingredients list which means your hair is getting more of what's good for it, versus what's bad. TGIN's Green Tea Super Moist Leave in Conditioner contains Argan oil which penetrates the scalp to nourish the roots of your hair, facilitating hair growth.
Renewing Shampoo, Retail: $24.99
Dream Girls
This stimulating cleansing shampoo offers a soothing aromatic experience, without the harsh stripping agents. This product will revitalize both hair and scalp & prepare the hair for the revival treatment.
Hold and Grow Edge Control: This long-lasting edge control is built for the strongest hold! Formulated for all hair types, your edges will stay protected & stimulated for growth!
Hi-Pro-Pac KERATIN PROTEIN NO-FRIZZ, Retail: $7.91
Hi-Pro-Pac (Highly Recommended)
The Keratin Protein Treatment is great for all hair types and one of my go-to items. It's inexpensive and as the reviews state, will leave your hair feeling stronger and looking healthy.
User Review: "Love this stuff! I use it twice a week. Leave on 5 min after combing through all your hair. Leaves soft and manageable. I don't know how I ever lived without this. Once I hit menopause, I lost all luster and shine to my hair. This brought it back to life."
So Much Moisture Hydrating Lotion, Retail: $19.98
As I Am (Highly Recommended)
So Much Moisture Hydrating Lotion from As I AM is a real shot of moisture for your hair.
Natural textured hair is beautiful hair, but it also tends to lack moisture. When hair is dehydrated, it looks dull, feels rough, is difficult to style and resists efforts to define the coil pattern.
So Much Moisture! is a glycerin-rich formula, enhanced with natural botanical extracts, providing deep hydration and incredible softness.
It also contains royal jelly, a natural substance collected from queen honeybees, known for moisturizing hair and rejuvenating the scalp.
What The Hemp~Deep Moisture Mask, Retail: $14.99
OYIN Handmade
Hair needs some love. OYIN Handmade formulated this nutrient-rich replenishing mask with bamboo extract, oat proteins, quinoa and more to help revive, strengthen, and smooth fragile ends and dehydrated hair.
Usage: Apply generously to clean, damp hair, ensuring even application. Leave on hair for 20-30 minutes. For extra absorption, wrap hair in shower cap or warm towel. Read a book, listen to your favorite music or reflect while you wait.
(Don't mind the acne lol. But these images are 5-weeks apart)
Moving right along, we have the hair shaft. The hair shaft is the visible hair that grows out from the follicle. It is made up of keratin. Keratin is a strong protein that is very resistant and is the same material your nails are composed of as well. The hair cuticle is your hair’s protective layer which prevents damage to your hair’s inner structure. Thus, giving us 3 stages of hair growth: Anagen, Catagen and Telogen.
THE ANAGEN STAGE: The Anagen phase is known as the growth stage because in this stage each hair bulb splits rapidly creating new hair growth.
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THE CATAGEN STAGE: This period only lasts around 10 days, which is very short compared to the first. In the catagen stage, the hair transitions from active to inactive, by detaching itself from the blood supply, and the hair follicle shrinks.
THE TELOGEN STAGE: In the Telogen stage, the club rests in the roots of your hair while new hair begins to grow underneath it. Once the Telogen period is over the hair club will fall out and make space for the new hair to come through the hair follicle.
Sulfur-8 Original Conditioner Hair and Scalp Jar, Retail: $19.98
Sulfur 8
Get the itch relief you need with Sulfur8 Anti-Dandruff Hair and Scalp Conditioner, 4 oz. This is the original formula and is a medicated treatment using actual sulfur. It comes in an easy open jar for convenience. This sulfur scalp treatment can be used one to four times daily as needed.
and for braids...try the Sulfur 8 Braid Spray.
Taliah Waajid Hair Gro Bamboo and Coconut Milk Growth Oil, Retail: $12.47
Taliah Waajid
Use before, during and after protective styling
Its intensive growth blend of 13 botanical and essentials oils formulated to promote thicker, fuller, longer, stronger hair on the scalp
Infused with their unique SciNatranol peptide fortifying complex, this lightweight, fast penetrating oil works three ways to supply necessary nutrients to the hair follicle, fortify hair from root to tip, and deposit.
Wild Growth Hair Oil, Retail: $8.62
Wild Growth (Highly Recommended)
Wild Growth Hair Oil 4 oz is a simple solution for your hair care routine. It consists of an uncompromisingly rich plant-based formula that hydrates, conditions and softens for more manageable hair.
Dry, tangled and hard to manage tresses will become soft, healthy and less prone to split ends and hair breakage. The hair oil promotes strong, thick hair growth for all hair types. This personal care product requires only three applications per week with only a few drops per use. For best results, use this product after showering and applying shampoo.
Olive Oil Nourishing Exotic Scalp Oil, Retail: $7.78
ORS Olive Oil Store
Made to moisturize, condition scalp and deliver lustrous shine
For Cornrows, Braids, Locs and Twists
Promotes healthy hair with Babassu Oil, Coconut Oil, Castor Oil and Ginger Root
Lightweight and non-greasy formula provides intensive moisture for dry scalp
Twist nozzle cap allows for direct application to scalp
Hair Growth Oil, Retail: $14.44
The Mane Choice Store
The Mane Choice Multi-Vitamin Scalp Nourishing Growth Oil is a perfect blend of multivitamins and essential nutrients designed to support natural hair growth and retention.
Enriched with Vitamins C and D and nourishing oils, The Mane Choice Multi-Vitamin Scalp Nourishing Growth Oil helps to revitalize and restore your hair for a much healthier, longer, and thicker state.
Madam CJ Walker
The MADAM Healthy Hydrating Serum instantly hydrates to relieve dry scalp by delivering repairing moisture. With repeated use, this dry hair treatment and scalp treatment will nourish and promote a healthy scalp barrier. This scalp serum contains no nasties- it is made with no parabens, silicones, drying alcohol, mineral oil, or sulfates. Pair this scalp treatment with our other hair products to respect, protect and perfect any style.
The Edge & Temple Strengthening Oil, Retail: $9.99
Design Essentials
The Edge & Temple Strengthening Oil from the Scalp & Skin Care Collection is a lightweight restorative treatment infused with black castor oil, biotin, and peppermint to intensely nourish and repair hair at breaking points for stronger, thicker, and healthier strands.
This Naturalceutical™ is blended with over 20 essential oils, providing a natural therapy that strengthens and fortifies the hair shaft, giving each strand a fuller and healthier appearance.
This strengthening oil acts as a sealant to protect hair from breakage and split ends while locking in moisture and protecting from UV and weather damage.
Key Ingredients:
BIOTIN fortifies strands for stronger hair
BLACK CASTOR OIL moisturizes & strengthens
Gold N Hot Professional 1200W Full Hood Dryer, Retail: $64.99
Gold N Hot Store (Highly Recommended)
This should be a staple in every home. You cannot go wrong with a traditional hooded dryer. This is a necessary step in your self-care regime for your hair to grow and retain length.
2 Heat / Speed styling combination
Adjustable column for customized height
Double vents under hood for even airflow
Full-size hood fits the largest of rollers
Fully vented hood provides maximum, even airflow
Hair Extension Holder & Hanger, Retail: $24.99
SALON PROS KNOW that the Xtension Styler Hair Extension Tool is the fast, most efficient way to style wefts, clip-ins, tape-ins and halo extensions. With 70% more hair-holding capacity than any competitor’s extension styler it cuts styling time in half.
As the #1 hair extension holder and weave organizer, the Xtension Styler is the optimal way to showcase your work.
For this article, we’re providing some tried-and-true products that work for the growth of 4C hair along with some input from professionals on the subject matter. We encourage you to take a moment to peruse the items above and of course, invest in some.
According to Scalp Micropigmentation Specialist, Amr Salem, “African American women have a lot of hair. It is long, thick and can be difficult to take care of. One of the best ways to care for this type of hair is by using natural products. As a result, they should stay away from products that are loaded with chemicals and ingredients that can damage the hair.”
Apart from natural products, Dermatologist, Ksenia Sobchak says, “I encourage my clients to use twists, loose buns and braids in less than one month. This helps stretch the hair, preventing tangles, knots and breakage. Stick to the right ingredients for your hair. For example, I like curly hair products lacking alcohol and sulfate formulations.”
Lastly, we factor in diet and lifestyle. Laurie Smith, Texture Specialist, American Board-Certified Colorist, and Aveda trained stylist says, "There is little that can be done to keep hair in the Anagen growing phase, but we can look at other factors. A balanced diet, consistent hydration, and exercise keep the body in good health.
This also keeps the hair nourished. For black women, a big factor in their lifestyle is their career. Some careers require the hair to be pushed back and covered most of the day such as chef or surgeon. Many naturals in this instance may rely on styles that are protective like braids that may stress the hairline—or buns that stress the mid-length and ends of the hair which will lead to breakage."
So, what can we do? "Protecting the hair is often only seen as style choice but it’s in our nightly routine as well, such as using a bonnet, scarf, or satin pillowcase to reduce the loss of moisture and letting the body rest and rejuvenate," Smith concluded.
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We hope this article helped and you’re taking a moment to try some of our recommendations. If you like something or are currently using a product you agree with on this list, comment below and let us know. Plus, don’t forget to like and share to help another woman on her haircare journey to waist length 4C hair.